Defogger repair kit. How to repair defroster tabs and grid lines.

if your window defogger more commonly
known as defroster is not working at all or some grid lines don’t heat up and you’re
not sure how to fix it, this 10 minute video is for you! I’m going to show you
how to fix broken tabs without soldering and also how to locate and repair damage
in grid lines. it’s easy! And if I can do it – you can do it. All I’m going to use is
a defogger repair kit you can buy at any local parts store and a multimeter, even
the cheapest Harbor Freight model will work for this job. First I need to check
if there is power and ground getting to the defogger grid so I’m going to turn
the key to the ON position and turn on the defogger. Next I am going to set my
multimeter to DC voltage… …and connect its’ leads to the wires going to the defogger grid As you can see the multimeter is showing I have battery voltage here, which means – the wires to the grid are fine and the switch
is working. All I need to repair – is the tab that broke off and the grid will
work again. Now I can turn off the defogger and start the repair. I bought
this kit at a local part store for about twenty dollars it includes supplies for both – the tab, and the grid lines repair. For the tab repair I have: cleaner
activator towelette, electrically conductive tab adhesive, and sandpaper to clean the surface of the tab where it attaches to the grid. And for the
gridlines repair I have quick grid repair compound with a stencil to place
over the grid, small brush, and an alcohol prep pad. Now I’m going to remove the
broken off tab – squeeze the connector to release the tab and carefully pull it
out. Then sand down the tab to make the attaching surface flat and free from all
of the previous materials like the part of the grid that could have come off
with the tab. Next gently pull apart the cleaner
activator packet until the green towelette is exposed. Make sure to not touch the towelette and most definitely
don’t touch the tab with it. Hold it by the back of the protective foil cover
and wipe the area where the tab is to be attached. Don’t reattach the tab to the same place it broke off from, let the activator dry for at least two minutes. While we
wait I am going to thoroughly knead the adhesive pouch for a minute or two, until
the adhesive is of uniform beige color. Now it is time to open the
pouch and apply one drop of adhesive to the surface of the tab. Immediately apply
it to the grid and hold firmly for one minute uncured adhesive around the tab may be
cleaned off with alcohol now I am going to set my multimeter to
resistance to check for continuity between the tab and the grid. First touch
the leads together to confirm the multimeter is working properly, then
touch the tab and the grid to make sure there is connection between them. My
reading is close to zero which means – I have good connection. And all I have left
is connect the wire to the tab until it clicks and the job is done! Next I am
going to turn the defogger back on and look for broken GRID LINES. Set the multimeter
to DC voltage again and touch the multimeter leads to the
opposite sides of the grid you should get 12 volts approximately
but my battery is going bad so it’s showing less. Nevertheless it will be
enough to test this grid. After checking the voltage between the tabs, I am moving one of my multimeter leads to the very bottom grid line, taking measurements, progressing towards the other side of the grid as you can see the closer I get to the other side – the lower the voltage reading is. which means this grid line is fully functional, and there’s current flowing through it. now look at the voltage reading as I
start taking measurements from the second grid line
it stays the same which means there is no current flowing through this line. All
I’m getting is battery voltage. And now it’s just a matter of finding where the
connection is lost, finding the area where the reading drops from full
battery voltage to zero. In my case it is all the way to the left this is the area – right here! Now that we know where the problem is
let’s turn off the defogger switch and start the repair. First I’m going to use
the alcohol prep pad to clean the surface we are working on then remove the protecting backing from
the stencil provided and carefully apply the stencil over the broken area of the
grid. Make sure there is a good seal between the stencil and the glass. Remove
all of the air bubbles from under the stencil. Shake the bottle of repair
compound and using the small brush provided apply the compound over the
stencil after applying the first coat wait for
the surface to become tack free and apply another coat repeat the procedure two-three times
until there is no light coming through the repaired area after applying the last coat wait 30
minutes before removing the stencil the manual says to wait 24 hours before
using the defogger but I just let it sit overnight and it seems to work just fine.
Now you can either check the resistance of the repaired area by placing the
leads on the opposite sides of it Or turn on the defogger and check for
voltage drop which is what I am doing. As you can see the voltage is dropping as I
am moving the red lead over to the left which means this grid line is repaired
and functioning properly. And this is how you fix broken grid lines. If this video
made sense – please give it a thumbs up If not – please share your feedback and
experience in the comments. Good luck and take care

Bernard Jenkins

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