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e39 talviruoskan imuvuotojen korjaus ja e85 muutos (osa2)


Welcome back to Sipa’s garage. This time we continue my winterbeater fixes by getting rid of the vacuum leaks. Which can be done easiest by removing whole intake. It is quite big task to do. But there is so huge amount of hoses and stuff under the intake in these engines, so it’s mandatory task to take the inake off. Here I have some new hoses and breather parts waiting to be installed. Which Petri had bought previously, but never installed. So I will install at least those. And then see what else needs to be replaced. Or it would be best to replace everything just in case. So to do that, lets start removing the intake. Removing the intake in these isn’t very difficult thing to do. Mostly just time consuming and annoying. Good order is to first stuff before throttle body, then all the wiring you see when doing that, and then remove the throttle body itself. After removing that, you get access to the big bolt under intake that needs to be opened. And then you can remove the injectors and injector rail. And after that you can open the intake bolts and lift it up. When lifting up the intake, you can remove rest of the hoses and stuff you forgot to remove earlier. Immediately after removing intake, I noticed that the throttle elbow had cracks in it. Not fully through, but deep enough so that this needs to be replaced. This is the most common vacuum leak spot in m52tu and m54 engines. And you can’t see that, unless you take off the stuff going to throttle body. In addition to that, the hose from separator to fuel pressure regulator had big crack in it. Which can be seen as black line here. The breather hose also seems to be oily, which means it leaks too. I didn’t see clear fault in that, but if oil passes through that, so does air. But the worst leak seems to be in this hose connecting the runners, which is rock hard and doesn’t stay on at all. Lets start the fix by removing the old stuff and replacing with new. This set could be the “Cold country” version which should prevent these parts from freezing at winter. But Petri had already bought the regular set. So I will use that. And I at least haven’t managed to freeze this normal version, so I think it’s fine. What? What the fuck Is this wrong part. Well god dammit. It’s also good to replace the breather return hose, and after that the intake can go back in. From the possible vacuum leaks, I forgot to show the plugs at the end of the intake. But here’s picture of those. Remember to check those when trying to fix vacuum leaks. And now when we have the injectors out like this, it’s good time to replace these with bigger ones, so I can start using e85 Damn it leaked the gas all over. These are Bosch.. Wait.. These are different length. Well I didn’t remember that. Well I will need to space out the fuel rail. But these are Bosch injectors ending -831 These don’t have this pointy thing as the stock ones have. But it will be fine. I just need to space out the fuel rail, because I didn’t remember that the stock ones are this short. Not big deal. As I said, to prevent future vacuum leaks I did replace the throttle elbow with new one. That is now there. It’s worth spending some time when installing this and make sure many times that it’s really fully seated. Because this must the most annoying part to install in these m5x engines. It’s really easy not to properly seat the throttle body or idle control valve connection. It may still look ok, but over time it can get loose and cause vacuum leaks again. So make sure it’s really there. It took me three tries to get it properly seated. So be careful with this. But it’s there and I can throw in rest of the stuff. ok, it took four tries. I needed to fix the alignment of the elbow little bit. When installing this. But hopefully it’s now there. All wires should be connected. All seems ok. I will also replace air filter, because I don’t know how old this is. There was at least some wasps there. Done! Next job is the xenon lights. It seems that the ballast on this side is broken. And it doesn’t light up the bulb. What now. So I will remove this and try out different ballast. New OEM ballast costs way too much for my budged and you can’t trust Chinese made ones. So I bought otherwise broken original hella headlight, which had new ballast to replace mine. This connector seems to be broken too. I need to replace this too. Totally cracked. Lets see what kind of bulbs we have here. How these will come off. I need to twist that. oh. disgusting. D2S lunex xenon. Some Chinese made shit. Lets replace these with genuine ones. And here I have genuine Osram bulbs. Osram had also newer model than these. But this traditional model was much cheaper than the new ones. These should be enough for my use. These are just for the low beams so don’t need to be that bright actually. Enough that these work. Then the rubber cover. That’s there and Petri seemed to have these tuning leds for the angel eyes. I will put these back on. I will change other side too and lets try then. Ok. So new ballast that side and both bulbs are new. So lets see if those work. Ok. Both did light up, so xenon problem fixed. I will just check the high beams for inspection. Yeah. Lights are ok. And previously I did change the bigger injectors to be able to drive with e85. So I will now fill this up with e85 And get this running with the much cheaper fuel. No point of driving with regular gasoline, because here in Finland we can get e85 from so many places. And much cheaper to drive with this. Also smells better than gasoline. At least for my nose it’s better. All the US guys on their youtube videos say that this smells really bad. But I think this smells good. Maybe the difference is that in US the e85 is made of corn. Corn.. Disgusting.. Here in Finland this is made of bio waste. Maybe that’s reason for this smelling better. And this also has fancy pink color if nothing else. If you are wondering what is this thing sticking out there, its there to keep the lid open in the fuel filler neck. It wasn’t open previously, so all fuel went to floor. So that keeps it open. It’s done and… How can I get this off.. Jesus Christ. Ok. It’s there. I need to drive like this.. And now I got even more fuel at the ground. Ok. Now time to plug in the laptop and see if I can get it running. I did flash in maps for the ecu that are made for e85 and for those injectors. Lets try starting it. And it runs. Next I need to lift up the car and replace the clutch. But lets leave that for next part.

Bernard Jenkins

21 Comments

  1. On kyllä aivan hirveä vekotin. Nää bemarit on kaikki paalissa 10v päästä.

  2. Onks tässä joku pasin oma väylä hankkia etanolia helevetin halvalla, vai olitko yksinkertasesti hakenu asemalta kannuun bensaa. Ku ei nää mitä kannussa lukee.

    Vinkkejä halvemmasta etanolista otetaan vastaan 😀

  3. Com'on!..hahaha…damn it, I just bought a pair of Lunex from UK today, how bad they can be? The cheapest OEM cost 60$ each, that is too much for me for a stupid bulb.

  4. Moi. Eikö sitä autoo tarvi säätää e85 selle? Kertositko lisää tästä?

  5. How much does your E85 cost compared to gasoline in Finland? E85 used to be a lot cheaper in Sweden but the prices have gone up the last couple of years

  6. In Tallinn, I last winter got a modification for my headlights, that turned original xenon headlight system into bi-xenon, and the guy who made it sold me Yeaky d2s 4300k bulbs that are bright as fuck, didn't cost me that much extra either, if I remember correctly, found it to be a good alternative to philips bulbs (cost more)

  7. Pelaako normibensalla miten kun ei oo mitään etanoolianturaa vaan tuo ecu ohjelmointi?

  8. ILIKECATZNCHEEZBURGERZWITHCHEEZSHAYAYAYAYAYAYAYAYAYAYAYAICOULDGOONLIKETHIS4EVERBUTIHAZTOGONOWBYE

    stock ecu? how do you flash it yourself?

  9. E39 ylivoimaisesti paras auto hinta-/laaatusuhteeltaan. Itse omistan 2 tällä hetkellä ja en vois olla tyytyväisempi.

  10. Moikka Pasi. Mul on m52b28tu. Kylmänä kun käynnistää starttaa hyvin mutta kuuluu joka toinen sekunti sellanen chic chic chic vähenee mitä enemmän lämpenee ja poistuu kokonaan lämmettyä. Pahempi ongelma et käy kylmänä silleen et kone yrittää sammuu joka 10 sekunnin välein ja pysyy yleensä käynnissä ainaki joku 5 kertaa kun yrittää sammuu tämäkin poistuu kokonaan koneen lämmittyä ja käy sen jälkeen ihan kun pitää. En tiiä missä vika eikä moottorivaloo näy. Nokka anturin vaihdoin mut ei jeesannu mitää.

  11. Kiinasta saa yksiä ainoita hyviä ballasteja ja ne liikkuu nimellä F7 Ballast. Niitä oon omiin autoihin tilannu, kun syttyy nopeesti ja on hyvä laatusia. Hinnat liikkuu 20€-30€.

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