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Fix Your Ender 3 and Upgrade the Bed Level


are you having a hard time leveling the
bed on your under three does it wobble or the springs ones really loose ones
really tight yeah that could be the problem
I’ll show you how to fix it on today’s Filament Friday. Filament Friday is
brought to you by these patreon supporters now when you got your under
three it came like this that came with the base all assembled and then you add
the pieces going up so what you do is make sure that all the layers are out of
place and then check it it shouldn’t rock right now and then you know you
have it right and then we’ll add the uprights while on this one the base was
never right so first we need to loosen these side screws and also the uprights
so we can level it and then retighten everything I’ll lay the Ender three on
its side and then I’ll loosen the screws that hold the uprights next I’ll loosen
the screws on the side of the base then we’re ready to adjust so now the four
upright screws are loose and the side screws are loose and so now when I try
to rock this it doesn’t Rock so now I need to tighten these side screws while
it’s flat and then we’ll tighten the screws that hold the uprights first I
tighten the screws on the sides and get these nice and snug I like to clamp a
square to the upright so I know everything is nice and straight and then
I’ll flip it on its side and tighten the screws that hold those uprights after
that I’ll take the clamps off and I know everything’s square now that we’ve got
the machine flat and square we can look at the real problem the next to the X
carriage right here one side is lower than the other and the side that’s lower
is the side where the springs are squished in fact I took out my caliper
and measured from the top to that bar and it’s three millimeters higher on
this side than it is on this side now I wish there was an easy way to adjust
this there are adjustable wheels but you can only do so much there’s two screws
right here that control the position of this arm and that’s when you assemble it
this is the assembly you get which is right here and you have to bolt this
crossbeam to it and it pivots around a screw head and then there’s two screws
that you tighten and if those screws are off a little bit
the other end is moving a lot and getting this right is not easy but it’s
easier to do it when you assemble it because right now I got to take all this
apart to get to those screws so I’m gonna take this apart and I’m gonna
adjust it and see if I can get this guy to be level or at least slightly higher
on this side because of the weight of this thing coming over in the brackets
I’m gonna get some say so slightly higher over here would not bother me and
I’m talking only like a half a millimeter but that’s we’re gonna do
next take this off take the lead screw off take these top screws and take this
bar off so we can get this whole assembly off I’ve taken the lead screw
off I’ve taken the top bar off I’ve disconnected the motor wires and now I
can lift this carriage off now it runs up and down just fine but I can take it
off and there’s two holes here that access the screws that hold this arm in
place so with an allen wrench I can come in here and loosen these guys and try to
adjust this and then slip it over and test it measure it and see if I can get
close to level so here’s the two access holes here’s the first one I’m gonna
loosen this and I’m gonna keep this one loose until I’m done and then the second
one which is the more important one is right here next to the motor I’ll loosen
this up then I’m going to twist this thing and you can barely see it but it
feels like I’m moving it a lot so I’m pushing as far as I can up in the
direction I want and then I’m going to tighten that first one it took me three
tries but I did get it there are two screws that I loosened I only tightened
the inner one and that way I could pivot the bar tighten it test it loosen it
move it so three tries and I almost had to take it to its max and then once I
got it set then I went back and tighten the second screw and it shifted it just
a little but not enough to worry about and I did put the threaded rod in so I
could check it at multiple points and I am a half a millimeter long on this side
then this side just exactly what I wanted so now there’s a couple things I
want to do before we put this back together let me show you that so the
next step is I installed this top bar I put all four screws in
but I didn’t tighten it and sometimes this can be hard to put in
if you can’t get these to line up then you might have to loosen the screws
underneath again and we square everything but it should still bolt in
place if everything is right so I got them in but they’re not tight they’re
just finger tight now I take this arm and I can lift it and see how smooth it
moves now there is an eccentric nut just on this side back here behind the bar
this is the only one you have adjustment to I loosen this guy up so it just spins
because I want these outer wheels to move smoothly and once I feel that it’s
moving smoothly I’ll hold it up like this and then I’ll tighten these guys
and then I’ll adjust this eccentric wheel to just ride so it starts to spin
and that stops any side-to-side movement so there are nod got it tight and it
moves pretty smooth and I just need to adjust this eccentric wheel it’s pretty
good right there so I got a nice smooth movement so now we can install the
threaded rod and now reinstall the threaded rod and what I like to do bring
the arm all the way up clamp it so it stays up so I can run the ride through
the t-nut and what I do is put just a little bit of white lithium grease on it
I put a little dab at the bottom a little dab and the bottle third up and
only two-thirds up that way the grease will grease the t-nut and the rod at the
same time and then I just run that through and if you feel any real serious
burs now’s the time to fix them but you’ll feel a little bit of resistance
but this thing should go pretty smoothly through the teen app all the way down to
the stepper motor you can almost let go of this thing and it’ll spin but not
quite there’s not it’s not that free spinning but once I get it all the way
down to the stepper motor then I can push it into the stepper motor and
tighten that up so that should grease everything so now I just can unclamp
this and push it into the clamp now I’ll
tighten that screw up on the clamp and we’re ready to go it’s all back together
no more wobble and the bed is a really level the springs themselves are about
equal and I ran my bed level test I won’t redo it here but I’ll put a link
to it up here but it came out really beautiful nice and even and like I said
the springs are about the same height so it really worked and this machine is
ready to go and if you’re interested in that white lithium grease I’ll put a
link to some in the description below but you can find us at just about any
hardware store so if you like what I’m doing here
maybe check out some of the other videos that are popping up if you want to help
support the channel patreon is one way or just buy it through the affiliate
links in the description below it all helps a lot and if nothing else clicking
that CHEP logo and subscribe I’ll see you next time right here at Filament
Friday

Bernard Jenkins

60 Comments

  1. Hey thanks for the tips I will try on my Ender 3 you’ve helped me so much on my printing journey

  2. Some really good pointers in here Chuck for not just the Ender but any printer that shares the same working geometry.

  3. Every Ender 3 group on Facebook should pin this video (and others from here) to their page for everyone.

  4. 2:30 a tip for if you don't want to do all that:
    Before printing, turn off the steppers and push the z axis down a bit by pushing on the right side (the side without the motor)

    Ez pz

  5. This video came just in time! I was really scratching my head about why I was having one side tightened way more than the others.

  6. Chuck you have two or more screws on the motor end of the X-axis. Is there really enough play in the holes to make this not line up? I put my Swanson square on my x and z extrusions also to make sure all was square. Also there are two Eccentric nuts on the Z.

  7. Perfect timing, I need to do a yearly maintenance cycle on my Ender, I'll put these checks to good use.

  8. I had the same gantry sagging issue, after performing the adjustment a couple of times, the sagging kept coming back. I “fixed” it by installing a second z rod kit that I got from TH3D. Now my gantry is level all the time.

  9. Not sure if it's a stepper motor in the background or something else but there is a really loud high pitch sound in the video.

  10. It’s a big mistake to assume that the ends of the uprights are cut square! I put them into my vertical mill and dust them off. Then I assemble it all on my surface plate and it’s perfect every time. I know, I know, not everyone has a full tool room attached to their store! It’s a blessing!

  11. Mate, I got an Ender 3 just before xmas, and I was having this exact issue.

    Now I come to YouTube to chill for a bit, and find that you've uploaded a video on how to solve my exact problem not 2 hours previously?

    Are you a 3D printing guardian angel or something?

  12. Great video. I am glad someone is Showing how to get the printers square and parallel, Instead of using a spirit level, which probably is not very accurate, To set up a 3D printer. This is the kind of information the community needs. If you're printing a tower , and everything is not square, you will probably be printing a leaning tower instead, Even if you are using a auto lleveling sensor.

    I use a machinist square to square my printer. Combination squares generally are not normally square. Even the Sterrett combination square is not guaranteed to be Perfectly square. And it needs to be as close as you can get it.

  13. I don't use white lithium grease anymore because it dry and cause me problem on my printer
    now I only use Vaseline and it is the best option that I find
    my printer is a Tronxy x5sa and the 2 Z motor are plug together on one plug
    so if one of the Z axis force a little bit it skip a step and I have to redo all the leveling step
    but since I use Vaseline I never had that problem again .

  14. Th3d has their own z rod clamp and anti backlash nut. Do you think these are worthy upgrades? Whenever I pause my print the hot end goes down ever so slightly that it runs against the printed part it paused printing. I’m thinking I need this on my printer.

  15. I have to say that it's a horrible design to have to totally disassemble the top half of the printer to do something so simple as getting the crossbar level. People dislike the Tronxy P802M for a lot of reasons, but this is one area where that design totally blows away the idiotic design of the Ender 3. If I want to level my Tronxy printers, I simply turn the TWO stepper motors on the Z axis until the X axis is level. No disassembly or guesswork required.

  16. I had the same thing where those two screws made it extremely difficult to adjust the level of the beam. I ended up drilling a single hole that is maybe 5 inches from the top on the inboard groove, that lines up with one of the screws, and with it on the machine, was able to tighten and loosen it, and got it level that way

  17. Hey chuck nice vid but something is wrong with your mike it has a really high-pitched buzzing

  18. Last year, I had an issue where I would level the bed, and somehow it would immediately become unlevel with any movement. Simply touching the bed made it unlevel. I struggled finding the problem for quite some time. The culprit turned out to be an adjustment for the wheels of the bed. It is out of sight and out of mind. To test this, simply wiggle the bed to side to side. If it moves, you need to adjust that part.

  19. Everytime I assume my printer is all good, CHEP comes up with a video and I've to re check my printer 😂

  20. Got that dare bltouch thingy and I cant remember the last time I had to bother with leveling anything.

  21. Drilled one hole in the up right. Left on inside. Lock tight the outer one snug it up. Lower the gantry on something sitting on lower legs. Tightening gantry wheels then tighten the gantry screws

  22. properly tramming the bed is vital for sure if you use a bubble level your doing it totally wrong your not leveling it to the floor your leveling the gantry to the bed.

  23. Ender 3 have another ploblem . Its dont read the sd card .
    Can you explane solution

  24. I had a persistent problem getting my Ender 3 bed level. The normal level procedure typically ended up leaving one of my leveling screws falling off. So I completely re-built the frame, using foil shims to make everything completely square. Still had the problem. Built myself a 3-point level system. Still the same problem. I finally came across someone describing a similar problem who discovered their Y axis extrusion was twisted! I put a level on my built plate and moved the Y axis through its whole range, and sure enough the bubble shifted from left-of-center to right-of-center as it moved. I got myself a piece of bare black extrusion and cut/drilled/tapped it appropriately, and finally I have a perfectly level print bed!

    So, if the steps in this video still don't work, check that your Y axis rail is flat! If it's not, no amount of adjustment of the surface plane or the rest of the frame will keep the hot end level across the whole build plate. And it doesn't take a whole lot of twist to turn into being several mm off at the edges of your build plate.

  25. If you use wd-40 dry ptfe lube on the lead screw you will have incredibly smooth z movement and no dust buildup after long term use and you can even spray it while in use.

  26. This looks like it'd be a good video to check out if you're getting any z-banding too. Those uprights and the gantry caused me some problems on taller prints before I rebuilt them like you did here.

  27. Concise, to the point – not everyone wants to spend 60+ minutes following an adjustment guide. Kudos.

  28. I took the shortcut/frustration approach. Hold the threaded rod side and gently pull up on the other side to match the bed. Works like a charm!

  29. You have helped me out so much this year setting up my Ender 3 Pro I just want to say thank you 🙏

  30. Finally someone showing how to correctly level the X gantry. I dd this to my CR-10s Pro when setting it up a couple months ago. Well done Chep!

  31. Creality should put this video on the sd card with the instruction to assembling. TOP

  32. Hi CHEP, there is something wrong with your microphone. There is a pretty loud

    high frequency of 16kHz.

    This drives me crazy! 😀

  33. When treading the Z axis lead screw back in, did anyone else notice it sounded as if it was crunching sand in the lead screw bearing?

  34. Nice display of some mechanical sympathy Chuck 🙂 I suspect a lot of print quality problems are down to poor assembly on these. The instructions are fine if you have some experience of mechanical systems, but for a novice, there are many pitfalls. To be clear, that isn't a criticism of users who don't have the experience!

  35. Hey Chuck, I have a problem with my bed on Ender 3, the middle where the aluminium profile runs is always too close to nozzle while the sides are low, any advice on how to fix it? I have adjusted the excentric nut so its tight.

  36. You left out one of the most important steps which is making sure the Y Axis is level, if it's not then the first layer at the front or back of build surface might be too high or low, best way to know if your bed is right is run a tramming circle.

  37. Hey Chuck, just wanted to say your microcontroller books got me into electronics like 20 years ago. Just happen to come across your channel, didn't even know you were making YT content! Great stuff, still inspiring the masses, I see.

  38. There is a really high pitch noise in the background and it's hurting my ears but nice video

  39. Great tips, thank you. One of mine wobbles, so I'll be making this adjustment soon.

  40. great video, I had "some" (5 mm ) slack on my CR10 s5 and the above method would have worked just fine as well I spent way more effort than described here, this would have been so much easier …

  41. I always had warped bed on my ender 3.
    After using it for one year I had to replace the build surface.
    The adhesion came back, but also something else happened, my bed wasn't warped anymore.
    Not sure what happened there, I think the factory build surface sticker had some inconsistencies or was applied poorly.

  42. I suffer from a 2-3mm warping on any size above 6cm x 6cm, mostly front right corner and back right corner, and no idea whats causing it, I thought first its the cooling problem due to factory cooler (Ender 3), but after reading a bunch, it sounds like its not the case, Im running a creality official tempered glass bed, but that happened with factory one too. Not giving up but any advice what to look into is appreciated.

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