[music] 00:13 Speaker 1: How many times do I have
to tell you boys. No footballs in the house. You’ll break something. 00:19 S1: Seriously. Mum, you’re such a panic
merchant. It’s a soft ball, it can’t do any damage. God! [smashing sound] 00:30 S1: Oh… Sorry, Mum. Sorry. 00:36 S1: Hoo-hooey. What a ripper. No dramas.
We’ll have that fixed up in a jiffy. G’day, knuckleheads! Uncle Knackers here and welcome
to Video 3 of my 10-part series titled, “My Top 10 DIY Tips.” And today, we’re looking
at repairing holes in plasterboard or drywall caused by things like wayward footballs, fists,
door handles, all manner of things. So, let’s stop mucking around and get stuck into it. 01:08 S1: Tools you’ll need are a pencil,
a tape measure, utility knife, a scrap piece of drywall or plasterboard, bigger than the
hole in the wall and a selection of drywall screws. A couple of lengths of scrap timber,
this is just a bit of two by one, to be used as the backing for our patch. Plastering trowels,
I’ve got a 6-inch one, a 8-inch one here, like that, and a 12-inch one for the finish
coat. If you’re only doing a one-off job, it might be even worthwhile just ducking down
the shop and buying these cheap plastic ones. A 150 grit sanding block, a dust mask for
when sanding that final coat, a cordless drill and a keyhole saw. Some cornice adhesive which
is a jointing compound in powder form which you mix with water. And last but not least,
a topping coat. 02:19 S1: So, what do you have to do to fix
this hole? Well, it’s really easy. Step one is to measure the size of the hole and then
allow an inch around the entire area. Transfer that measurement onto a bit of a scrap drywall,
which I’ve already done and I’ve pre-cut a piece just to save some time. Just this little
piece here. Now, if you haven’t cut drywall before and you’re a little bit unsure about
it, I have a link below in the description box to a video of mine which will explain
exactly how that is done. So, we’ve cut our piece, we now scribe this piece onto the wall,
like this. Put it up against the wall with your pencil and just mark around that square.
And this is gonna give us a really nice tight fit. What you need to do now is cut this square
out. I’ll show you how to do that. Now it’s really important that before you cut this
square out with your hole saw, that you check behind the wall for any pipework or possible
wiring that you may cut. 03:29 S1: Aaah! Just kidding. Cut the hole.
Get your utility knife and just go down on all four sides like this. [background noise] 03:49 S1: Like that. Next, grab your keyhole
saw and just cut down to the corners. And then it’s just a simple matter of breaking
those corners back
and getting rid of the debris. Done! Now it’s time to attach our timber batons up through
the hole, with our plasterboard screw on a drill bit ready to go and just screw it in.
Just so that the screw head goes below the surface, just below the surface. And another
screw down here. Just below the surface like that. Just give him one more little turn.
So, there’s one done. Let’s do the other one. 05:05 S1: Timber batons are now attached.
Now it’s time to insert our scrap bit of drywall. Look at that for a lovely fit. Beautiful!
Now, screw it off. Now the top… That is beautiful. And one down the bottom. Done!
Now it’s ready for compound. Before you apply the joint compound you need to tape all of
these joints. And I’m using here a fibreglass tape which is great for the DIY-er. A paper
tape, which most plasterers use, is a stronger tape, but if you’re not used to it, it can
cause air bubbles. So, this should get you out of strife. So, put the tape up on the
joint like that, just run it down. It kind of sticks to the wall, which is really handy.
Like that, and cut it off, just like that. 06:20 S1: And go right around the patch, like
this, cut that off. And then, these ones will go across here, make sure you don’t overlap
those two sections there, otherwise you might get a bulge in your patch. There you have
it, all taped up. Now it’s ready for compound. A can of premixed, it’s my cornice adhesive,
just to save some time and if you wanna know how to do that, there’s a link in the description
box below to a video of mine. Now I want this job to go off fast, I want this compound to
dry fast. So, I’ve gotta a little secret here, remember, don’t tell your mates, this is our
little secret. 07:18 S1: You just get some table salt, normal
old table salt, and pour that, making sure [07:24] ____ that here into… A liberal amount
into the cornice adhesive mix that I’ve got here, and that’s gonna make it go off really
quick. So, mix that in, more, then put a bit more in, like that. Mix it up nice and now,
let’s apply it to the patch. Just wipe that over the coat, like that, across like this,
and now smooth that out. 08:32 S1: Okay, let’s just let that dry for
about 20 minutes, and come back and put the second coat on, all right. Eight minutes later,
and that’s now dry. Amazing. If you use a pre-mixed joint compound, it takes at least
24 hours. Okay, it’s now ready for a light sand, if it needs it to take off any hard
spots, a bit of a scrape to take out any hard spots, then you’re ready for coat number two,
which I’ve got here, ready to rock and roll. 09:03 S1: I’ll add some more salt, you know
how a good salt is. It not only hardens your arteries, it hardens up your joint compound,
okay. We’ll mix that in, like that, just give it a good mix. Make sure it goes right through
the whole lot, and then we’ll apply it to it to the joint. This time, getting a bigger
spread to try and fit it at the edges. 09:52 S1: So, there we have it, the second
coat done. We’ll leave it like that a bit for another eight minutes, then we’ll come
back and put the top coat on, job’s done! That’s amazing, eight more minutes and the
second coat is hard and ready for the top coat. So, it’s taken 16 minutes so far, it’s
too easy. 10:13 S1: So, I’ve got my trowel and my hawk
loaded, with, my now, my topping coat. I just wanna smear that over the whole lot, feathering
off the edges to finish the job off. Let’s do that. 10:46 S1: And there you have it, patched on,
wait 24 hours for that to dry. And once that’s dry, sand it back further on the edges, make
sure you wear a dust mask, ’cause it gets very, very dusty and cover your furniture,
’cause that dust is so fine. Once you’ve sanded it back, it’s ready to paint. Make sure you
prime it first, if you don’t prime it first, you’ll be in trouble. So, there you go, patch
done, it’s too easy. Whoa, before you go, great tip, knackers! 11:17 S1: If you found this video useful,
please subscribe to my channel, the button’s down there. Thumbs up, the button’s down there.
Share and comment, it will all be greatly appreciated. So, there you go, Video 3 done.
How to patch a hole in dry wall or plasterboard. Stay tuned for Video 4, it should be up in
the next week or so. Look for it in your subscriber inbox, if you have subscribed to my channel,
which you will do, won’t you? So, till next time, cheers! [music]