– If you’ve been lucky enough to stumble across this
plumberparts.co.uk video, it’s not all about underfloor heating. So subscribe if you wanna see the myriad of plumbing disasters photos that we get sent in
every week, and review, and also if you wanna join
our Facebook and Twitter then you’ll be welcome there as well. I hope you enjoy today’s video and remember everyone, to hold tight! Plumberparts.co.uk. Honest reviews and advice. Hold tight and welcome to
today’s plumberparts.co.uk video. This is the second part
of a series of films that we’re doing about an
underfloor heating system that we’re installing at
my poor house behind us. In the first video we showed you how the Wavin Manifold works, which is the particular Manifold that
we’re fitting on this job. We also showed you how we decided where we were gonna site the Manifold which was kind of a difficult one. Every job is different so
we had a bit of trouble figuring out where we were gonna put it. But we figured that one out now. Then we showed you also how
to instal the actual pipe work which was a stapled system, to our Celotex or our Kingspan floor insulation. After that it’s going
to be a 75 mil screed put over the top of all that,
but that’ll be done later on. The next bit that I’m
gonna show you is actually us piping up the manifold
into the heating system and also showing you how to
pipe up the individual loops that you’ve got into the manifold. So I hope you enjoy today’s video. Please follow us on Twitter and Facebook and if you need any more help,
then please do let us know through those social media channels. We post loads of photos every
week and loads of videos as well, stuff like that,
anything you’ve got send it to us and we will send it out to the plumbing fraternity, the world. Anyway, I hope you enjoy today’s video and remember everyone, to hold tight! So as you can see it’s
not really position A when it comes to where you’d
actually usually instal a Manifold but we covered that as I said in the video beforehand. So what I’ve got to do now is I’ve got my heating flow and return here. That’s my flow pipe,
that’s my return pipe. They’ve gotta go into
these two valves just here. So your flow will go into there and your return will go into there. Then we’ve got our two loops that need to go into our two manifolds just here. It’s very important as well,
so that our flow loop goes out there and our return
loop comes back up there. Because I’ve only got two
loops and they’re both to the same room it’s really simple for me to find out which one is which. I mean, really, if I just
blow down that one there, I can feel air come out
of that one so I know that I’ve got my flow return loop there, and then obviously with
a bit of detective work I know that’s the other
two loops I’ve got. If you’re installing in a
really, really big house, there’s different rooms and all that, you’ll have to tape up
and mark out which returns and flows go to which so
then you’ll know later on. Then you can actually mark the manifold accordingly at the end of the job. So what I’m gonna do, because
at the moment this job is a bit of a nightmare in here really, there’s been a few
different plumbers coming in over the years and do
different random bits and bobs. So what I’m gonna do is
I’m gonna board across the back here try and
make this look as nice and as aesthetically pleasing as possible. So hopefully once we’ve got
it all piped up and done it looks a little bit like this and as you can see, we’ve made the best of
a pretty bad situation. We’ve managed to get this system in, making it look nice
with a lovely little bit of pullover across the back there. Gives the whole installation
a nice neat appearance, and also, if you look closely, you can see that we’ve hidden most
of our wires that lead to our head actuators, and to our pump and also to our two port valve. They’re all hidden away behind there, they can’t get pulled about or anything. As you can also see, we’ve got our control
wiring centre in there now. So now let’s have a
closer look at the system and show you how it works
and also I’ll show you the screed that’s been
in for about six weeks. So now that we’ve got all
this installed we can have a really good look at how
these systems actually work and also how the various
components communicate with each other to tell the
system to run or to not run. Firstly, we’ve got our flow
coming in from the boiler here. Now as we knew from earlier
on our flow would also go off up to the other
services in the system, like the hot water tank
and also the radiators that are also upstairs in the house. What happens is the hot
water will come here, come through this two port
valve when our thermostat is calling for underfloor
heating and then it will come up, be sucked up through this pump here, and then round and down
off to these two flows. It will go off to those
loops that are in the floor. Now, the electrical
sequence for how this works is the thermostat in the room will prove, it will say “I want
heat”, or the programmer and the thermostat will say
“We want heat at the moment”. Then that sends a live
supply to this valve here and when that valve opens
there’s a micro switch that clicks and then sends
a separate live supply over to this pump to say “I’m
open, I wanna come on now” and it also sends a live supply
to the border as well to say “We’re open, we’re ready for business, “get us some heat coming through”. That pump is also gonna
go “Oh my god let’s run.” That’s what happens basically. This hot water then will
be sucked through here, and then this pump
basically circulates around and around and around
this area here like so. Now, as we said earlier
on, different floor makes need different types of temperature. So low build Wavin underfloor heating, which is used a lot
for, say, timber floors, requires a slightly higher amount of heat going through those pipes and what we can do is we can
set the heat going through the underfloor heating using this here which looks very similar
to a radiator TRV. Now because what we’ve got
here is a 75 millimetre screed, screeded floors don’t need to
be as hot as the other floors. Most people run them at 45 degrees, but I’m gonna run this at 50 degrees. What we do is we’ll use this gauge up here to detect how much hot water is actually going through the system. Then we use this gauge
here to really judge the return temperature. It gives you a good idea
as to whether the system is working properly or not and it’s more of a kind of diagnostic thing
for if there’s any problems. Well, that’s what I tend
to use that gauge for. Also, obviously, it’s got our
pressure on there as well, so we can tell the system
pressures going into the manifold. So what happens when this
system is operational and this is all being called to run? We’re introducing 80 degree or 75 degree water from the boiler here, and what’s happening is
that’s getting mixed with the cold water that’s going through here. As this senses and says
“Whoa there’s loads “of hot water coming in
here”, what it’s gonna do, is when it’s in normal
operation straight away, it’s gonna run water
through there and straight back down the return off to the boiler. Now as it gets more comfortable
with the temperature that’s going through the
underfloor heating system, and say it’s asking for 45 degrees, this valve is gonna shut the
amount of water coming in from the boiler there, and
that should just create an almost sealed loop from the
rest of the heating system. Then, every so often, obviously
as the heat dissipates through the floor into the
room, it will allow a trickle of hot water to come through here and keep that temperature at a
nice steady 45 degrees, or whatever you’ve set it at. So when you commission
one of these systems, you can basically turn this down to two, get the boiler settings
fully up to temperature so then you know you’re introducing the hottest amount of water possible, and then just gently crank
this open until you get a nice steady temperature through here, what you’re looking for. Now often you’ll notice with
underfloor heating systems that the motorised heads
that we’ve got here don’t just clank open
straight away similar to the two port valve that’s next to me. What they do is they have a
low voltage going into them so they open very, very
slowly, so you need to be quite patient when it
comes to these opening up. The wider ones we’ve got
here, can take anywhere up to about 10 minutes to fully open. So what we’re gonna do now
is run this system for you. The screed has been down for 6 weeks now, so we don’t have to wait. Usually it’s 21 days for the
actually screed to go off, depending on how thick it is, and that is basically
to stop it from cracking or if there’s any problems afterwards when you basically turn the hot water on, if it still a green screed it
can cause problems later on in the job and be a whole lot of a hassle. So what I’m gonna do now, is get in our wireless stat
and turn this system on and then you can see how it all works. So here’s our wireless stat here, what I’m gonna do is just
hold down this button here so then we can select
where the manual is on, we go right, we want manual on, so we’re gonna hold that down there and then that’s gonna be happy. So now we can actually manually turn up, and you should see in the background that our system lights up and comes on. It says calling now. Right so this valve is now opened up. There you go, that micro
switch is now approved, and that’s telling the pump to come on so our pump’s now running. So now let’s have a quite
closer look at our actuators which are still closed and you should see that these slowly open up as well. So now we can see how slowly
these actually open up. When these are both fully open, you’ll see the whites of their eyes. I mean basically that’s
just a white plastic bits around here as they open up. Now very important to have a look at is the actual flow parts just up here. This is basically how you can set up and balance your system. So that’s shut. You’ll notice there’s a small
dial just on there like so. As you can see there,
we’ve got that system just that loop there set to
about five and a half. So you can set it to one,
two, three, four, five, all the way around to 11. Which if you ask me is a spinal tap joke, and basically we’re
gonna set this on five, so we pop that down there like that. It’s still shut but what it does, it actually stops you from
opening it all the way. So if we go round to here, we can open this up now, and that stops on that stop there, and that’s how that
denotes which way it opens. So this one is just a
little bit more open because it’s just one loop down,
so that’s set to six. As you go around here you’ll see that that stopper is just
hit on there like that. We go above, you can see that they’re both hit on their stoppers. So going back down you can still see that these still haven’t
really fully opened up yet, and also our temperature is still hovering at a very sort of lacklustre
late 20 degrees C. If I feel the pipe that’s
here, there’s not a lot of heat coming through yet from the boiler because these haven’t fully opened up yet. So at the moment the
system’s still dormant. You’re not gonna feel loads of hot water coming through here straight away. So now this is starting
to open up a little bit we should see that our temperature
here starts to creep up. So yeah, that’s starting to come up now. There we go that’s rising nicely. That’s all because that is
now starting to open up. So what I’m doing is just
shutting this valve here, just like so, you just shut that and as you can see, what that’s doing now, is that’s shutting off the hot water that’s coming in from our boiler and turning this into a loop. So the cold water coming
back from the screed and the underfloor heating
is cooling off at the moment. So what we’re gonna do, we wanna get that a little
bit hotter, don’t we? So we want to introduce
a little bit more water, so we’re just gonna turn that open a notch and then just watch this come up. That’s nicely coming up again. We’re gonna go one more notch here. That’s coming up nicely
and as you can see now, both our heads are nicely open as well. So now we’ve got the system fully running, we’ve got a flow temperature going round at about 45 degrees. If I want to get that any hotter, I can just whap that open
like that and we’ll see that this dial here should
start to go up again. So, look, that’s going up to 50 now. It’s creeping up. The temperature on the returns is slowly starting to come up as well. That’s sitting at about 30 degrees, and you should really have
about a 10 to 12 degree differential between the flow and return. Then you’ll know you’re getting the water to go through at the right rate. There’s no point flying
burning hot water through all the time because that makes
the system sort of inefficient. So, a lot of you may ask why have I put a two port valve on here
when this pump isn’t going and that valve is going there? Nothing’s gonna be going round the system. Well, mainly I find that
sometimes you can get, I mean, there is another pump
on the heating system here, which is in the airing
cupboard and when that cuts in with the boiler and this isn’t calling, say there wasn’t a two port valve here, this could, if this valve was
set in a certain position, could almost act like a bypass. It could roam around there a little bit. So it’s really handy just to
pop a little two port valve on there, zone it off properly, and it gives you a little
bit more control over the heating system and
makes it more efficient. Also, when it comes to
our motorised heads, when the system’s been switched off, they can still take quite a
while to shut down as well. So with these sorts of systems
its all about patiences. In the words of Gary Barlow, ♫ Have a little patience Oh yeah. Yeah, so I’m really happy with how this system’s
working at the moment. We have actually run it a few
times over the last couple of days as well to make sure
that it gets up to temperature and I can tell you now, that Big G the cat absolutely loves it. He is in all sorts of pleasure. He lays on the underfloor and he’s like “I can’t believe what you’ve done here. “It is amazing.” Let’s have a quick look
at the kitchen as well and you can see the screed and also see why we put
in the blue sticky mesh. So here we are as you
remember from the last video, you saw that we were stapling down all our underfloor heating,
ready for our screed to go in. So let’s have a closer look
at the outside insulation that we put around the screed. So here you can see our small piece of insulation as well that
we’ve run around the outside. As we showed you Wavin have them so they can be cut off at certain heights. So they’re really, really versatile for different depths of screed. Now it’s very important
you put these in because they stop any heat being transmitted into the wall and then off to atmosphere, which would make the system not
as efficient as it could be. But also if there’s any expansion
that needs to be taken up, when you’re actually turning
this on for the first time if there’s anything needs to be done, this will take up that expansion as well. So it’s really, really
important that you put that in. It’s not just some
gimmick that they send out with the underfloor heating. It’s got a very, very
important role in this job. So there’s our underfloor now. If you wait about half an hour, I guarantee you Mr. G will be out here getting his belly scrubs
on this nice hot floor. (singing) So there you go! As you can see we are
slowly getting there when it comes to getting this kitchen done. Hopefully I won’t be divorced
by the time it’s finished and we’ll be selling the
house to split it 50/50. I hope you enjoyed today’s video and you found it hopefully informative. Please follow us on Facebook and Twitter. Above all, it’s so important
that you subscribe, okay? You can follow us on
Facebook by clicking on the link that’s appearing now. It’s a great place to be. You guys send us loads
of photo’s and videos, and we use them in our
weekly ask the plumber videos and plumbing disasters as well. So hopefully this isn’t going to be just one video that you’ve watched here, but hopefully you’ll
sign up to become a part, and realise that it’s
a bit of fun as well. If you need any more help
or any more information please comment in the
comment section below, or follow us on Facebook and Twitter like I said, and ask us there. We’re gonna be doing more videos on this particular instal
pretty soon as well. We’re gonna show you to
set up the Wavin programmer because that can be quite difficult. Also, we’re gonna look
through schematically in front of that Manifold in
there how the system works when it’s in on or off operation, which will give you a bit of
an extra idea of what to do. So just pop over to our
YouTube channel and you should find those videos there
in the next week or two. Anyway, I hope you come
back and all the stuff, and all the scrubs and all the rubs. If I can find Mr. G I’m
gonna bring him down here and put him on his lovely
bit of underfloor heating. He will not be sorry. I’ll see you in next week’s video, and remember everyone, what have you gotta do, especially now that the summer’s gone, and I’ve just got back from holiday, and I’ve proper got holiday blues? You’ve got to hold tight, alright? So remember everyone to hold tight! (clapping) See you later! Plumberparts.co.uk. Honest reviews and advice. You impressed by the
underfloor heating George? Oh, George. (snapping fingers) George, are you impressed
by the underfloor heating? ‘Cause it looks like your
bum likes it a lot, oh yeah. Oh, belly scrubs. Belly scrubs. ♫ Meow meow meow ♫ Meow meow meow meow meow meow ♫ Meow meow meow

Bernard Jenkins

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *